Despite the sneaker’s reign as the de facto style of the 21st century, dress shoes never went out of style. Yet, similar to apparel, making by hand is a fading practice. From machine-sewn soles to automated lasting techniques (the process of molding the uppers), footwear manufacturers have perfected making shoes at unprecedented speed and scale — but what gets lost in the process?Barcelona-based shoemakers Marcos Hjorn have an unmistakably contemporary feel, yet remain among the few current names committed to completely handcrafted, made-to-order footwear. Employing techniques hat span centuries, the founders, Marcos and Aina, launched their atelier in 2023, during a time when sneaker start-ups, like Allbirds, began declining for factors like overexpansion and quality degradation. Discreetly tucked inside a brick-paved street in the Gràcia area, the studio operates out of a space named Casa Bruta. In the distant backdrop of strides in automation and accelerated trends, Marcos Hjorn instead began its journey by taking a step back and proceeding with intention. Here, every pair is bespoke, minimizing waste and enabling close refinement for every pair. "Like shelters, shoes transform and provide comfort, a feeling of belonging, and a dialogue with the materiality around you."This approach allows the founders the room to “question and solve problems creatively.” Leather uppers get eye-catching details like the loose threads of the Wrinkled Slip-on, and the elastic eyelet closures of their modern Mary Jane. The Crossed Ballerina is among the most minimal models, featuring whole-cut leather uppers gracefully wrapped at the toebox, allowing the back heel to remain satisfyingly seamless. It’s by returning to the source in traditional shoemaking techniques that Marcos and Aina have grown a distinct sensibility, as futuristic as it is nostalgic. The atelier isn’t a 19th-century-born maison, but it does approach its product with a similar level of care and quality.Following a January visit, we connected with the founders to learn more about their unique practice. Marcos and Aina highlight the irreplaceable qualities of handmade shoes and the art-driven philosophy behind their footwear designs.When and why was Marcos Hjorn Shoemakers founded?We presented this project publicly in 2023, but it really started a few years earlier. We began with no real expectations of where it might lead us, but as two young shoemakers, we were curious to explore our trade outside of its traditions, which can sometimes feel rigid in its practice.We both had prior backgrounds in design studies and felt inclined to develop our own methodology and approach — grounded in artisanal process and traditional techniques, but applied through a more flexible perspective. View this post on InstagramA post shared by Marcos Hjorn Shoemakers (@marcoshjorn) What was the first Marcos Hjorn shoe design?It’s difficult to define which design came first. In the beginning, we were exploring many different silhouettes and ideas at the same time. After many trials, guided largely by intuition, we began to feel that certain designs were ready. We developed the Mary Janes and the Wrinkled Slip-on simultaneously, going back and forth until we reached their final iterations.These designs came from observing different elements and codes and considering how they might interact within the structure of a shoe. For example, using buttons combined with eyelet elastics — which are more commonly found in other garments —or testing silhouettes that could better interact with the smocking texture. There is a lot of questioning and reasoning behind the finishes and details that [feel] familiar or nostalgic, [but] can be seen again in a new way.Does Barcelona’s long heritage of artisanal footwear inform your approach?We wouldn’t consider it in a direct way, but we like the idea that people might interpret and find connections to the city we grew up in. We feel fortunate to be surrounded by many talented friends who help us question and continue pursuing our work, often bringing forward ideas that we might not reach on our own. For us, contemplation and archival research play a big role in how we design and approach shoemaking."Most of our designs require moments of concentration and care that naturally imply a slower rhythm."Where did the idea for the Wrinkled Slip-On come from?All of our work is rooted in our atelier in Barcelona. The design process is very dependent on making and on an ongoing dialogue with ideas and materials. This methodology keeps us grounded and helps us discover new ways of working.Early on, we were drawn to experimenting with different fabric manipulation techniques from the 15th century, applying them to leather. We created a collection of samples exploring these techniques without initially considering how they might translate into a shoe.While observing these leather smocking samples, we found that what would normally be considered the “wrong side” was more compelling to us than the “proper side.” In this version, the threads of every pleat were left exposed — details that would normally remain hidden underneath. After many tests, we eventually combined this technique with a loafer silhouette that felt unique but still balanced.Which of your designs is the most challenging to make?Each design has its own difficulties, whether in the upper making or in lasting the shoe neatly. For example, we often avoid using a central back seam because we prefer leaving the heel seamless and uninterrupted. This decision increases the difficulty when creating the patterns or lasting the upper.Most of our designs require moments of concentration and care that naturally imply a slower rhythm. For us, this is a way of resisting easy solutions or simplified processes. Intricacy goes hand in hand with our artisanal work.What role do the archival references shared on your Instagram play in your footwear design?We enjoy collecting and researching references from archives, essays, and writings on art, craft, and design. We also like sharing the work of artists and creatives who have stayed with us over the years and continue to influence our work.Historical photography of everyday life, ethnographic archives documenting objects and crafts, help us better understand how things are made. We are interested in the nuances of different approaches and aesthetics, and in how everyday needs and functionality influence shapes and materials.They also reveal the cultural ties and symbolism hidden in everyday crafts from different regions and periods. Research, for us, is a way of better understanding the objects we are creating today."Shoes have an interesting connection to the conception of the individual. They become a living portrait of their owner, aging alongside them, molding to each step, wrinkling in a particular way."In 2023, you said, “I understand shoes as shelters, as what unites us and separates us from the floor.” Can you expand on that idea?This comes from a text we wrote while trying to understand the poetics behind the objects we create. Rather than thinking about shoes purely as objects to be consumed, we preferred to focus on their relationship with the wearer — the intrinsic value and the conversation that emerges from what we wear.Shoes have an interesting connection to the conception of the individual. They become a living portrait of their owner, aging alongside them, molding to each step, wrinkling in a particular way. We appreciate the balance that can exist between beauty and functionality — bringing forward an object that we consider beautiful, but that can also be worn comfortably.Like shelters, shoes transform and provide comfort, a feeling of belonging, and a dialogue with the materiality around you.Why make each pair to order as opposed to producing collections?We strongly believe in making shoes for someone, knowing that what we bring into the world will be cherished and meaningful to a particular person. We find this to be the best approach to respect the inherent slowness of this trade and to avoid unnecessary waste.Rather than focusing on collections, we prefer the idea of continuity and revisiting. Designing, for us, is an ongoing conversation with materials and ideas, where it is important to know when to subtract, add, or simply pause.Are there certain aspects of handmade shoes that can’t be replicated by mass production?Mass production is based on efficiency — managing time and cutting corners when necessary. It is an understandable approach, but one that, due to its scale, can sometimes forget the human touch, the soul of objects, and how they are created.For us, making by hand means caring for every detail, even when that implies work that might be considered inefficient. Working by hand also allows us to discover our own perspective on making, which doesn’t always mean following what tradition might consider perfect or correct. A slower practice helps us question and solve problems creatively, rather than focusing solely on efficiency. We believe that making things with your own hands helps develop a unique language that reflects the conversation between ideas and reality.What’s something that you wish more people knew about handmade footwear?What first drew us to this trade was the diversity of steps and techniques involved in making a shoe by hand. Beyond pattern making, cutting, and sewing, there is also the transformation of a sewn piece into a volumetric and structured shape.Leather is molded with a conscious and deliberate method so that it can later be worn by someone. It is a very hands-on interaction with materials, where you can see the influence of many other trades and crafts through shared methods and tools.